By Diana Russler

The Atacama Desert — a place so dry that in some parts there has not been any rain in recorded history . . . a hauntingly beautiful but austere land where time seems irrelevant . . . gateway to a mystical land where Pacha Mama (Mother Earth) is still revered.
Inhabited for more than 10,000 years, the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama, Chile (an hour’s drive from the airport at Calama, Chile) provides a convenient base from which to explore the desert. Our hotel, the Tierra Atacama, provides the personally tailored guided excursions to explore this wonderland. To beat the intense heat, we plan our excursions for early morning and late afternoon. During the middle of the day we spend time soaking in the swimming pool, relaxing in the spa or enjoying a siesta.
There are a number of excursions that you can consider to discover the incredible beauty and excitement of the desert. These are the five most popular:

EXCURSION ONE: THE VALLEY OF THE MOON
The Salt Mountains, barren and lifeless, riddled with valleys, cliffs and escarpments snake through the desert just outside San Pedro.
We hike into the Valley of the Moon as the sun drops towards the horizon behind dramatic stone and sand formations, eroded by wind over thousands of years. This former lake bed has been pushed and pulled by earthquakes so that sharp arêtes rise into the sky, forming natural sculptures of extraordinary color and texture.
Salt deposits encrust many of the rocks with a white coat that sparkles in the light. The area is absolutely sterile. Not a blade of grass or an insect or an animal is to be seen.
As the temperature drops and the rock contracts, eerie cracking sounds can be heard as if the rocks are talking to the setting sun.
We hike through tall narrow canyons, through caves, scrambling up and down rock faces. As we reach the end of the hike, the sun is setting, leaving a purple pink glow on Licancabur, one of the many majestic volcanoes which tower over the desert. We are tired but exhilarated.
EXCURSION TWO: THE VALLEY OF MARS/LAS CORNISAS
The Valley of Mars (also known as the Valley of Death) is distinguished by a huge 500 foot sand dune that rises in the middle. We hike up the rocky mountain side to the top of the dune and stare down into the desolate valley below. In the distance the waters of the San Pedro River sparkle as they flow through deep gorges and canyons towards the oasis town. The wind at the top of the dune is fierce, whipping sand around us, stinging our skin until it resembles the color of burnt sienna. We run down the dune, sinking, falling, laughing riotously all the way. It is a return to childhood in a giant sandbox.
EXCURSION THREE: RAINBOW VALLEY/CACTUS VALLEY
A few miles away is Rainbow Valley, a series of multi-coloured escarpments—green, blue, red, orange and yellow—which change hue and tone depending on the light. The deep blue sky offsets the color of the rocks. Nearby, petroglyphs etched thousands of years ago decorate the rocky outcrops. In addition to llamas and depictions of shamans, we are surprised to see images of a dog and a monkey. The dryness of the desert preserves these relics of the ancients and provides a glimpse into the lives of the Atacameños.
Along the edges of the San Pedro River, huge cacti march up the sides of the valley. Pampas grass, which can slice your skin open if you brush against it, grows along the flowing stream. Small herds of llamas live and graze in the area. Several llamas take advantage of a particularly deep sand pit to roll around. They look quite comical as they take their sand bath. We hike along the river bed, climbing over small waterfalls and the pools that form beneath them. This verdant valley contrasts starkly with the arid desert beyond.
EXURSION FOUR: THE GEYSERS OF EL TATIO
Located at 14,000 feet this is one of the highest geyser fields in the world. Since the geysers are only active at sunrise, we leave the hotel at 4 am under a star-filled luminous sky for a two hour drive over a deeply rutted, dusty road to reach the plateau just as dawn is breaking. As the sun rises, more than 40 geysers and fumaroles erupt sending huge columns of steam and boiling water into the frigid mountain air. It is a beautiful if at times bizarre landscape where cones of crystallized silica and other salts bubble and boil, forming mounds. The acrid smell of sulphur catches in the back of our throats as we walk through the geyser field being careful not to get too close to the vents in the ground.
The area just below the geysers is home to herds of graceful vicunas, desert ostriches and vizcachas, the wild Chilean rabbits with long tails that live in the boulder fields.
Further down the mountain the water bubbles out of the ground at the Baños de Puritama, a series of small pools and hot springs where you can enjoy a relaxing, revitalizing swim in the warm mineral waters of this unique natural spa.
EXURSION FIVE: THE SALAR DE ATACAMA
A short drive from San Pedro takes us to the Salar de Atacama, the large salt flats where the runoff from the Andes accumulates in the plain. The salts and minerals evaporate to form a thick mineral crust on the surface. This seemingly lifeless plain is home to the National Flamingo Reserve where we see large flocks of pink flamingoes feeding on the red krill that inhabits the shallow waters of the small lagoons scattered around the salt pan. The sunset over the plain is an explosion of orange, yellow, red and purple, reflected in the lagoons. As the sun sets, a fierce cold wind picks up, making us very glad to have our warm jackets. It is an example of the contrasts that you will find in the Atacama.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
A number of international airline companies fly into Santiago de Chile. From Santiago LAN Chile has several flights a day from Santiago to Calama, the mining town about an hour from San Pedro de Atacama. Transfers can be arranged by your hotel.
www.lan.com/Chile
Stay at the Tierra Atacama hotel, an excellent all inclusive eco-hotel which offers guided adventure, excursions and spa services.
www.tierraatacama.com
As the weather is pleasant and dry throughout the year, you may travel anytime.

For more information go to www.enjoy-chile.org